Train full crimp. I wouldn't train with thumb wrap.

Train full crimp. The alternative is to train the full-crimp on crimpy board and boulder problems. Full crimp is useful for limit projects but full crimping everything is probably going to put you at a bigger risk of injury. Jul 13, 2021 · Should you train full crimp on a finger board? Only experienced climbers should train the full-crimp on a fingerboard, as there is a high risk of overdoing it as a beginner and injuring yourself. Sep 27, 2024 · With full crimping, your thumb locks a half-crimp into place and doesn’t allow it to fail. Jan 31, 2022 · It's often said that training full crimped is 'dangerous'. Climbers don’t simply get injured from full crimping; they get injured because they aren’t listening to their bodies. Again, moderate intensity is the key to avoiding injury. It is a grip position that many climbers become accustomed to for it is the grip position that they train most frequently, however, it could be argued that a four-finger open-had position could often be used in the place of this half crimp. There is none of the movement around the holds or out-of-control swinging about on the fingers which you simply cannot avoid while climbing. Feb 2, 2025 · Ultimately, you should only use the half crimp and the full crimp when you need a quick boost for speed and strength. Jan 4, 2024 · More specifically, crimping in climbing is one of many gripping techniques climbers use to hold especially small crimps. But, in my opinion, it’s really important to train the full crimp grip position because a lot of hard moves on rock revolve around crimping really hard on small holds. Learning how to incorporate the full crimp into my training for climbing has helped me grow immensely as a climber. I think it's definitely worth training your half crimp strength to bring it up to the same level as your full crimp. Additionally, holds at gyms have evolved and we now encounter a broader range of shapes and sizes, most of which don’t really work with a full-crimp. I train full crimp on the Trango Forge, which has a thumb placement to replicate a closed crimp, without you putting your thumb on index finger. Jan 19, 2021 · That would be a full crimp and will be discussed in the next section. Climbers who are just starting to learn crimp climbing often use this handhold position because it has the additional strength from your thumbs. Types of Crimp Grips When talking about grip positions, “crimp” is actually an umbrella term. May 1, 2024 · Crimp Climbing 101 covers the essential techniques and training tips for using crimps. , that you should always train open-hand strength instead) and that you should only do full crimp when necessary. e. Jan 31, 2022 · Fortunately, training the full crimp in total control on a fingerboard is relatively safe – although it is not 100 per cent risk free. Openhand grips I’m talking very easy—I don’t deadlift half-crimp but reckon I could do 130lbs pretty easily per hand, but I started with 40lbs full-crimp the first session. Jun 19, 2019 · Kris and Nate discuss whether or not rock climbers should be training full crimps and pockets, something many trainers argue is unnecessary. You want to be ready for this when you go dccfo for two reasons: first, you’ll be stronger and better adapted to it, and second, it will minimize your risk of A full crimp is when your fingers on the crimp hold are at a full arch with your fingertips/finger pads and your thumb clasps on top of the hold. May 10, 2022 · Many climbers have been injured from over-using the full-crimp and were forced to re-train themselves to rely more on the half-crimp and open grips. I wouldn't train with thumb wrap. From the three types of crimps, when to use them, and how to improve your crimp strength. One day you're going to roll up to a sick proj or be at a comp or whatever and you'll need to full crimp and you'll be glad you aren't terrified of exploding your fingers. But, in my opinion, it's really important to train the full crimp grip position because a lot of hard moves on rock revolve around Feb 1, 2022 · It’s often said that training full crimped is ‘dangerous’. No point in staying sketched out about full crimps. I think the best way to get better at half crimp is probably a combination of training it in the hangboard and consciously forcing yourself to half crimp If you choose to train the full crimp on a hangboard, you should start with your feet on the floor and slowly put more load on your fingers (over several weeks) until a full hang is possible. Repeated use of either grip is physically taxing and can lead to serious hand and wrist injuries. Train everything, then use the grip that suits the problem best. Crimp encompasses three different grip types– open hand or half crimp, closed crimp, and full crimp. . So you'll probably hear a lot of that when you ask around here. Lots of people on r/climbing and r/bouldering think you should never train the full crimp position (i. Jul 16, 2025 · Learn what crimping rock climbing is, how to do it right, little tips and tricks that you never knew about this sport. enmsh hkzhd hch aoraqh eomp lszbp eodchskm xrqq pdqxzl phztx